La Peninsula

A Renaissance symbol of power, discovery, and craftsmanship is reimagined for modern collectors

Luxury fine jewelry has long served as more than adornment; it tells stories of history, identity, and legacy. This summer, British designer Chloë Woodmansterne, founder of Aril Jewels, brings one of the most fascinating symbols of the Tudor era back into the spotlight with the unveiling of the Bespoke Armillary Sphere Ring at Philip Mould & Company, presented alongside the acclaimed exhibition Elizabeth I: Queen & Court.

The extraordinary 18-carat gold creation transforms from three elegant interlocking bands into a fully three-dimensional armillary sphere, an ancient astronomical instrument that became one of Queen Elizabeth I's most recognizable personal emblems. Once associated with exploration, wisdom, and divine order, the armillary sphere reflected England's growing influence during the Renaissance while symbolizing humanity's place within the cosmos.

For Woodmansterne, recreating that symbolism required more than artistic interpretation. To faithfully understand the engineering behind these remarkable historical jewels, she arranged a private viewing of rare Renaissance armillary rings preserved in the British Museum's horology collection, pieces not currently available to the public.

Where Renaissance History Meets Contemporary Fine Jewelry

Every Aril Jewels Armillary Sphere Ring is individually handcrafted in London, requiring approximately 25 hours of meticulous craftsmanship after nearly 20 hours spent perfecting the intricate mechanical design. Each bespoke piece may be personalized with engraved messages, hidden gemstones, or meaningful details known only to its owner, transforming the jewel into a deeply personal heirloom.

"The armillary sphere was a symbol of knowledge, discovery and power, and a particular favorite of Elizabeth I," Woodmansterne explained. "It perfectly captures what the collection is about: taking extraordinary historical ideas and transforming them into pieces that can be worn and enjoyed today."

The first rings created for the collection beautifully demonstrate that philosophy. Woodmansterne's own ring bears the inspiring inscription, "Shoot higher that your arrow may the better fly," adapted from a sixteenth-century proverb. Her brother's bespoke version conceals the names of his wife, son, and himself within the rotating celestial bands, alongside Sir Isaac Newton's enduring reflection: "If I have seen further, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants."

Elizabeth I's Jewelry Was a Language of Power

As one of history's most influential female monarchs, Queen Elizabeth I carefully crafted every public appearance. Pearls reinforced her identity as the Virgin Queen, Tudor roses affirmed her dynastic legitimacy, while the armillary sphere projected intellectual authority, exploration, and divine wisdom. Even today, these symbols continue to captivate historians, collectors, and jewelry designers seeking to preserve Renaissance artistry through contemporary design.

That historical storytelling remains central to Aril Jewels' wider Elizabeth Collection, which also draws inspiration from the legendary Cheapside Hoard, the remarkable cache of Elizabethan and Jacobean jewels discovered beneath London in 1912 and regarded as one of the most important historic jewelry discoveries ever made. The extraordinary collection, returning to public display later this year, offers an unparalleled glimpse into the vibrant gemstones, symbolism, and craftsmanship that defined Renaissance luxury.

Rather than reproducing historic jewels exactly, Woodmansterne reinterprets their artistry for modern life. While traditional handcrafting techniques, including hand-painted gouache designs, rub-over settings, and delicate milgrain work, remain at the heart of every creation, each piece is engineered to complement the lifestyles of today's collectors while preserving the romance of centuries-old design.

Recently showcased at the prestigious Royal Versailles Ball, as featured by Vogue, Aril Jewels continues to demonstrate that history's greatest inspirations remain timeless. The unveiling at Philip Mould & Company invites visitors to experience not only exceptional craftsmanship but also the enduring dialogue between Renaissance art, royal symbolism and contemporary fine jewelry.