La Peninsula

Pitti Uomo Edizione 109 kicks off a season of winterwear for men’s fashion in the City of the Baptist

Florence moves differently in January. The light is cooler, the streets slick with Tuscan winter rain, and yet, during Pitti Uomo, the city pulses with a familiar, unmistakable Renaissance rhythm. From January 13–16, 2026, the Fortezza da Basso once again became the gravitational center of the global menswear conversation as Pitti Uomo 109 unfolded, welcoming more than 750 brands and an international community of designers, buyers, creatives, and cultural tastemakers. This winter edition confirms what the industry already knows: Pitti Uomo is not simply a trade show; it is a living barometer of where style, culture, and modern masculinity are headed next.

For Fall/Winter 2026–27, the theme was “Motion”—a concept that feels especially resonant in a world defined by constant evolution. At Pitti Uomo 109, motion is not just physical movement but also philosophical, exploring adaptability, longevity, and fashion’s capacity to transform as lifestyles shift. The official campaign, captured through the lens of Chris Vidal and Tuomas Laitinen, framed this idea with quiet intensity, underscoring a season defined less by spectacle and more by thoughtful progression.

Across the sprawling grounds of the Fortezza, heritage and experimentation coexist in effortless dialogue. The show’s five exhibition sections—Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out—mapped out the full terrain of contemporary menswear. Impeccable tailoring stands shoulder to shoulder with technical outerwear, sculptural silhouettes, and refined outdoor apparel, reflecting a man who moves fluidly between city, nature, and culture without changing his sense of self.

At the heart of this edition are its guest designers, each embodying the spirit of motion in their own way. Soshi Otsuki, founder of the Japanese brand SOSHIOTSUKI and winner of the 2025 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, claimed center stage as Guest Designer with a special fashion show in Florence. Known for his cerebral approach to tailoring and narrative-driven collections, Otsuki also lends his vision to the official Pitti Uomo campaign, reinforcing the seamless relationship between concept and creation.

Equally anticipated is the presence of Hed Mayner, the Paris-based designer whose architectural silhouettes and radical proportions have redefined contemporary menswear. Mayner staged a special runway event at the Palazzina Reale, bringing his unmistakable aesthetic, both sculptural and deeply human, into dialogue with Florence’s historic grandeur. The result is expected to be less a traditional show and more a meditation on form, space, and modern elegance.

Japanese creativity continues to shape the fair’s cultural narrative through Shinya Kozuka, founder of SHINYAKOZUKA, who headlined January’s Special Event with a project developed in collaboration with the Japan Fashion Week Organization. His presentation underscored Pitti Uomo’s ongoing commitment to fostering cross-cultural exchange, particularly between Italy and Asia, where innovation and craftsmanship are often inseparable.

This global perspective was further extended with the China Wave, a dedicated space spotlighting eight contemporary Chinese brands, and with the European debut of Sebiro Sampo—a Japanese project that stages a spontaneous runway of men embodying a new vision of masculine elegance. These moments collectively signal a broader shift within menswear: one that favors nuance, individuality, and cultural depth over rigid definitions.

Pitti Uomo 109 also marked a notable expansion beyond fashion with the debut of HiBeauty, a new section dedicated to niche perfumery and experimental skincare. This move reflects the growing intersection between menswear, wellness, and self-expression, acknowledging that modern men's lifestyle is increasingly holistic. Grooming, scent, and skincare are no longer accessories to fashion but integral components of contemporary living.

Material innovation was highlighted with installations such as Consinee’s “Echoes of Craft,” a site-specific project curated by Sara Sozzani Maino in collaboration with Georgian designer Galib Gassanoff. Here, precious yarns and cashmere fibers transformed into a surreal, tactile experience where tradition and experimentation merge.

Throughout the Fortezza, established names reaffirmed their relevance while embracing evolution. Brunello Cucinelli, Stefano Ricci, and Piacenza 1733 elevated classic tailoring within the Fantastic Classic category, while brands like Barbour, Woolrich, and Snow Peak redefined utility in the Dynamic Attitude and I Go Out sections. Collaborations such as Roy Roger’s x Kappa and Filson x Baracuta illustrate how heritage labels continue to move forward through strategic, design-driven partnerships.

Ultimately, Pitti Uomo 109 is less about predicting trends and more about reading the present with clarity. It captured a moment when menswear is no longer static or prescriptive but fluid, intelligent, and deeply personal. In Florence this January, motion is not just the theme; it is the message.