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Inside Hatton Garden’s World of Handmade Jewelry: Q&A with Lucy Crowther of Minka Jewels

Inside Hatton Garden’s World of Handmade Jewelry: Q&A with Lucy Crowther of Minka Jewels

Shopping
May 12, 2025
Written By
Laurie Melchionne
Photography
Minka Jewels

For jeweler Lucy Crowther, handmade jewelry is more than a craft—it’s a family legacy and a lifelong passion for color, craftsmanship, and personal expression. Inspired by the timeless style of her great-grandmother Minnie and grandmother Katrina, Crowther’s journey began with childhood memories of admiring their vintage treasures. After training as a gemologist and gaining industry experience in London’s renowned Hatton Garden, she founded Minka Jewels to bring her vision of bold, bespoke, handmade jewelry to life. Today, Minka Jewels is celebrated for creating one-of-a-kind pieces that tell personal stories through carefully sourced gemstones and expert craftsmanship.

How did you get your start in jewelry design? How did your great-grandmother Minnie and grandmother Katrina influence your journey in becoming a designer?

Jewelry has always been part of my world, and I have always had a great appreciation for handmade and intricate work. My great-grandmother, Minnie, and grandmother, Katrina, both had a real love for beautiful things and a real sense of personal style; there are some wonderful old photos of them looking so incredibly stylish (attached a photo). Their passion for jewelry, I believe, shaped mine, as I have lots of memories of looking at beautiful works by Stuart Devlin, John Donald, and Grima, amongst others. I trained as a gemologist and then worked as a colored stone trader in Hatton Garden, which gave me a very solid foundation and understanding of value. I always knew I wanted to design and often spent my lunch break down in the goldsmith's office in the same building. Minka Jewels grew from my love of color, craftsmanship, and creating bold and timeless pieces.

Can you give a run-down on the diamond industry from your Hatton Garden perspective?

Working in Hatton Garden taught me so much, and going into the various diamond dealers was always such an experience. Hatton Garden is a bit of a time warp; walking up dusty stairs to little offices where you deal with someone through a hatch was always something exciting. I love working with old-cut diamonds, and I now have the most wonderful antique diamond dealer whom I visit often; there is something so romantic about stones from the past and the fact that they are hand-cut rather than machine-cut, it is something I truly love. 

It’s a place rooted in tradition, filled with generations of expertise. I focus on natural diamonds, especially those with unique tones like champagne or chocolate brown and gorgeous old mine cuts. Clients today care about provenance and ethics, and I work closely with trusted suppliers to make sure every stone has a story behind it.

What are the gemstones to invest in now? Which stones will increase in value in the future and why?

Sapphires have been on the rise for some time now, especially yellow, padparadscha, and no-heat varieties. No heat (treatment) stones are increasingly rare, and I pride myself on sourcing exceptional examples and teaching my clients about the stones. Tourmalines have also gained a lot of attention over the last 10 years, they are such a special, vibrant gemstone when found in high quality. Investing in stones with strong natural, attractive color, great cut, and good provenance is always a smart move.

What sets the bespoke experience at Minka Jewels apart from other Hatton Garden jewelers?

The Minka Jewels bespoke process is incredibly personal. We sit down with each client and explore the world of gemstones together, looking at colors, quality, and how these factors influence the value. I like to think of it as a collaborative design process, and clients often leave with a deeper appreciation for the stone they have chosen and interesting knowledge of their stone. The result is something unique, designed with care and meaning, and handmade here in London.

How often are new collections updated?

We’re always adding to our collections with one-of-a-kind pieces. No two stones are alike, and we like to design around each one’s unique beauty and characteristics, always being inspired by what the stone is telling us, so even within a collection, every piece feels personal and special. 

What design elements define the Minka Jewels aesthetic?

My style is simple, bold, and fuss-free. I like clean lines that let the stone speak for itself. Every design is tweaked for the gemstone that is chosen and I choose stones for their color, shape and always looking at the cutting as this is so important. Vibrant pops of color that catch the eye are my favourite, and it is all about making something timeless with real presence.

What key elements catch your eye when searching for the perfect gemstone? How does it vary by piece, bespoke client instructions, or aesthetic?

I’m always drawn to color first; vibrancy is key. Then I look at the shape, size, and how well it’s been cut. For bespoke work, I listen closely to what the client wants, but I still focus on finding a stone that feels alive and full of character. The goal is always something beautiful and eye-catching that feels right for the wearer and will always be appreciated for the little earth's treasure that it is. 

What important lessons did you learn while at the Gem Palace in Jaipur? How do these lessons inform Minka Jewels today?

Jaipur taught me to embrace color and creativity. The energy there was incredible: stacks of rough gemstones waiting to be cut and craftsmen who could transform them into something so special. It made me fall in love with bold, vibrant stones and appreciate the artistry that goes into every cut. I have such appreciation for hand-cut stones, hence my love of old-cut diamonds. 

What are the latest trends in rings or engagement rings you’ve been seeing among clientele?

Clients are becoming more adventurous with color, which I love; sapphires, tourmalines, and emeralds are all popular choices. There’s also a real interest in mixed metals and unique settings. People want something personal that tells their story and is a bit different to everyone else’s, the classic diamond solitaire is something people don’t tend to ask for anymore. 

What’s next for Minka Jewels?

More bespoke, this is where my heart is. I love working closely with clients to create pieces that are deeply personal and one-of-a-kind. Alongside that, I will continue designing a small number of unique pieces each year and always be led by the stones I find and fall in love with.

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